Trip to Lomas de Lachay in Lachay
Trip to the Huaca Pucllana in Lima
New Art, made by me here at my new studio
Also, I'm heading to the states on Friday on a little trip I'd like to call, "Changing my visa/seeing my family and some friends/stocking my studio in Lima."
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Other Eats
(Madeleine from a French pastry shop in Miraflores. I bought it for its shape.)
(Guanabana, sweet fruit)Monday, September 21, 2009
Friday, September 18, 2009
Studio!
(A little something I like to call MY STUDIO--a square despite the distortion)
(View to the North)
(View to the East)Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Bad Attempt at Establishing a Routine
Today was the first day I got to my studio to work. I spent time there the other day, but it was cleaning the dust and grime of Lima off the window sills and floors. It felt good to make art in my own space, alone. It felt normal. It removed, momentarily, the shock that comes from being here in Lima.
It took me so long to get to my studio because I was rushing around being a concurso finalist. Being a finalist is grand, but it requires a lot more work and that makes a lot more stress. I have to make the prototypes. First it was elation--sweet I am a finalist. Then there was a meeting. I found out that the other finalists had been called and notified two weeks previous to the email that was sent--they had two extra weeks to do all of this other work. I was angry--no one called me! Then, everything that followed was stress.
My project is a set of notebooks, in three different sizes (A5, A6, A7 for you geeks in the know). They have woven covers and sewn bindings. While I know how to bind the books, I have no idea how to weave the covers. And, the covers all have to be woven using a special technique because that's the special category I entered into. Anyway, panic ensued. While I was alone in not being notified of my finalist status, I was not alone in my want of a weaver. Another guy, Sergio, also needed to find a weaver for his project.
To simplify, Sergio has been helping me make simultaneous meetings and arrangements with a weaver. We have traveled to the outskirts of Lima, to the land of poverty, dirt roads, moto-taxis, shacks, gringos-never-come-here-ville. And then to the land of everyone-is-here-and-sketchy, there-is-no-space, it's-chaotic and your-bag-is-about-to-be-stolen. Pubic urination happening throughout. We survived these trips, though. And, I think we both are having our projects woven as I write. But, like everything here in Peru, it's all uncertain. I won't believe it until it's in my hand and paid for--really until it's been submitted and I win or lose. By the way, the prize is $3000 US--cash!
I'm continuing with Spanish classes.
I also began "Danza Negra" which is better translated at Afro-Peruvian dancing. I am hoping this will combat the stress.
It took me so long to get to my studio because I was rushing around being a concurso finalist. Being a finalist is grand, but it requires a lot more work and that makes a lot more stress. I have to make the prototypes. First it was elation--sweet I am a finalist. Then there was a meeting. I found out that the other finalists had been called and notified two weeks previous to the email that was sent--they had two extra weeks to do all of this other work. I was angry--no one called me! Then, everything that followed was stress.
My project is a set of notebooks, in three different sizes (A5, A6, A7 for you geeks in the know). They have woven covers and sewn bindings. While I know how to bind the books, I have no idea how to weave the covers. And, the covers all have to be woven using a special technique because that's the special category I entered into. Anyway, panic ensued. While I was alone in not being notified of my finalist status, I was not alone in my want of a weaver. Another guy, Sergio, also needed to find a weaver for his project.
To simplify, Sergio has been helping me make simultaneous meetings and arrangements with a weaver. We have traveled to the outskirts of Lima, to the land of poverty, dirt roads, moto-taxis, shacks, gringos-never-come-here-ville. And then to the land of everyone-is-here-and-sketchy, there-is-no-space, it's-chaotic and your-bag-is-about-to-be-stolen. Pubic urination happening throughout. We survived these trips, though. And, I think we both are having our projects woven as I write. But, like everything here in Peru, it's all uncertain. I won't believe it until it's in my hand and paid for--really until it's been submitted and I win or lose. By the way, the prize is $3000 US--cash!
I'm continuing with Spanish classes.
I also began "Danza Negra" which is better translated at Afro-Peruvian dancing. I am hoping this will combat the stress.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
I got the studio!
I have keys! Tomorrow I am going to buy a radio and a sewing machine. I have some plans for new sculptures and prints and drawings. Excitement!!!
Monday, September 7, 2009
September Goals
It's ALREADY September. I began Spanish tutoring session today, with a guy named Alex. I met him because I was looking to rent a studio space, and he had a room for rent. While I was there, I discovered he offered Spanish classes. Lucky me! I inquired and so it goes. I can use the extra help. I understand so much, unless it's slang. But, my brain needs some review and some explanations. I'm get around in Spanish, but if I'm going to teach or have an exhibition or write well I need improvement. It's challenging and the role reversal (once professor now student again) is keeping me on my toes.
After tutoring I went to look at a studio space in Barranco. I should clarify that I am actually looking at rooms for rent and informing the landlord of my intentions to use the space for art making and not living. So far, I the response has been positive. Meaning, no one seems to have a problem with me or my art making intentions. In fact, they seem interested in the idea of me not actually living there. Anyway, I think I have found a space. It's a decent sized space, in the bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. It's not far from my friend, Monica's house/studio, from some of the best galleries and shops. It is a second floor, corner room, with two sets of big windows overlooking the two streets below. I think I saw a fig tree in the backyard. The room has parquet flooring (is that how we call it?) and comes with its own bathroom down the hall. The landlord is a cute old Señora. The rest of the house is big. Tomorrow I am bringing the rent and deposit (rent is s./ 250 or about $85 a month). It's cheaper and bigger than anywhere else I've found. The downside is that it is in a old (sooty) neighborhood.
Then, as if today were not already shiny and nice enough, I came home and checked my email. It turns out that I am a Finalist in the for the Concurso Nacional de Artesania 2009 (National Contest of Craft/Artesans--and bad translation). Holy greatness! It's good news, but it also means I have a lot more work to do and it may involve traveling. But, at least I am establishing myself here and not hiding under a rock.
In more trivial news, I just bought a new album which I am keen on: "Television" by Baaba Maal. It's different than his other music, but it's certainly has his mark. I found out about the new album from an article on NPR's website.
After tutoring I went to look at a studio space in Barranco. I should clarify that I am actually looking at rooms for rent and informing the landlord of my intentions to use the space for art making and not living. So far, I the response has been positive. Meaning, no one seems to have a problem with me or my art making intentions. In fact, they seem interested in the idea of me not actually living there. Anyway, I think I have found a space. It's a decent sized space, in the bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. It's not far from my friend, Monica's house/studio, from some of the best galleries and shops. It is a second floor, corner room, with two sets of big windows overlooking the two streets below. I think I saw a fig tree in the backyard. The room has parquet flooring (is that how we call it?) and comes with its own bathroom down the hall. The landlord is a cute old Señora. The rest of the house is big. Tomorrow I am bringing the rent and deposit (rent is s./ 250 or about $85 a month). It's cheaper and bigger than anywhere else I've found. The downside is that it is in a old (sooty) neighborhood.
Then, as if today were not already shiny and nice enough, I came home and checked my email. It turns out that I am a Finalist in the for the Concurso Nacional de Artesania 2009 (National Contest of Craft/Artesans--and bad translation). Holy greatness! It's good news, but it also means I have a lot more work to do and it may involve traveling. But, at least I am establishing myself here and not hiding under a rock.
In more trivial news, I just bought a new album which I am keen on: "Television" by Baaba Maal. It's different than his other music, but it's certainly has his mark. I found out about the new album from an article on NPR's website.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
How is it almost September?
Well, since the last entry, I have met Fernando's brother and sister and the respective partner of each. Hope celebrated her 75th birthday with drinks and a carrot cake.
(Top: Fernando, Kathy, Tom, Ricardo Bottom: Mali, Hope, Gletys)
Ricardo, Gletys and I went on a quick trip to Pisco. We happened to be traveling there on the 2-year anniversary of the big earthquake and small tsunami. The government hasn't done much, the system is full of corruption, and nothing is ever organized. Where houses used to be, there are a lot of shacks made out of plastic sheeting and woven sugar cane walls. So, naturally, the people are struggling and unhappy about what has and has not happened. On the day we traveled, there was a protest. It blocked the road into Pisco. Our bus stopped in Chincha because it could not cross the blockade. We waited on the bus for a long time before deciding to take a taxi to Pisco. The taxi took the three of us right up to the protest. The police were there, tires were burning in the road, I was waiting for a stone to puncture the windshield. But, we crossed into Pisco. After the blockage and protest the roads were clear. They were in horrible condition (another unfulfilled promise from the government). We arrived, oceanside, to the house of Doctor Robert Clarke, marine life researcher. Robert is 90. We had a delicious late lunch, dinner really, followed by brandy and soda. It was an early bedtime. We woke up early and headed back to Lima in the morning. We arrived to a lunch at Pichin, Cesar and Mariela's house (the Gonzalez-Gabilo family).
(View from the upstairs balcony, the tsunami flooded the entire downstairs with 4 feet of water, and wiped out the wall and gate seen here)
I had been working for about a month on a submission for the Concurso Nacional de Artesania 2009. And then I got sick. I was sick for too long, but didn't have to go to the hospital. Somehow, with the help of Fernando, I finished my submission and turned it in on time. I am waiting to hear back from the jury.
Mali, Tom and I went downtown to San Francisco Cathedral. We had a tour that blazed much too fast through some interesting spaces and corridors. There was some awful repainting of wall colors and poorly preserved frescoes. There were interesting catacombs complete with dark spaces, low ceilings, uneven floors and lots of skulls and bones. The library was a conservator's nightmare. Paintings in the corridors are collecting the elements, natural light and pigeon poop. Earthquakes have destroyed the right angles throughout. It is a dying monument that needs investment, like so many places here in Lima and Peru.
These days, I am in search of a studio and some Spanish classes. I am still working on making connections. That puts us into September.
(Top: Fernando, Kathy, Tom, Ricardo Bottom: Mali, Hope, Gletys)Ricardo, Gletys and I went on a quick trip to Pisco. We happened to be traveling there on the 2-year anniversary of the big earthquake and small tsunami. The government hasn't done much, the system is full of corruption, and nothing is ever organized. Where houses used to be, there are a lot of shacks made out of plastic sheeting and woven sugar cane walls. So, naturally, the people are struggling and unhappy about what has and has not happened. On the day we traveled, there was a protest. It blocked the road into Pisco. Our bus stopped in Chincha because it could not cross the blockade. We waited on the bus for a long time before deciding to take a taxi to Pisco. The taxi took the three of us right up to the protest. The police were there, tires were burning in the road, I was waiting for a stone to puncture the windshield. But, we crossed into Pisco. After the blockage and protest the roads were clear. They were in horrible condition (another unfulfilled promise from the government). We arrived, oceanside, to the house of Doctor Robert Clarke, marine life researcher. Robert is 90. We had a delicious late lunch, dinner really, followed by brandy and soda. It was an early bedtime. We woke up early and headed back to Lima in the morning. We arrived to a lunch at Pichin, Cesar and Mariela's house (the Gonzalez-Gabilo family).
(View from the upstairs balcony, the tsunami flooded the entire downstairs with 4 feet of water, and wiped out the wall and gate seen here)I had been working for about a month on a submission for the Concurso Nacional de Artesania 2009. And then I got sick. I was sick for too long, but didn't have to go to the hospital. Somehow, with the help of Fernando, I finished my submission and turned it in on time. I am waiting to hear back from the jury.
Mali, Tom and I went downtown to San Francisco Cathedral. We had a tour that blazed much too fast through some interesting spaces and corridors. There was some awful repainting of wall colors and poorly preserved frescoes. There were interesting catacombs complete with dark spaces, low ceilings, uneven floors and lots of skulls and bones. The library was a conservator's nightmare. Paintings in the corridors are collecting the elements, natural light and pigeon poop. Earthquakes have destroyed the right angles throughout. It is a dying monument that needs investment, like so many places here in Lima and Peru.
These days, I am in search of a studio and some Spanish classes. I am still working on making connections. That puts us into September.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
S l o w S l o w Quick! Quick!
Things had become slow until last week. Two months must have been exactly enough time for me to brew (and boil over and be cleaned up and brewed again) and be ready to be tossed into the streets of Lima. Moises, who continues to be good (and by good I mean polite, sweet, amiable, smart, et cetera) has provided me several adventures now.
We met with the Christina Deuñas of Taller 72. The studio was nice, clean, adequately equipt, and easy enough to find. They have a big press, a small press, a litho press, screen printing/plate shooting area, ventilated area (outdoors, of course) and decent sized work tables. Good. I learned that supplies are hard to come by, and my work is unusual because of the non-black-ink-ness of it. So, those colored inks are going to have to be imported--bummer. And so are the sheets of BFK, Kitakata, Somerset and the other things I usually use. I did find Arches though for the lovely price of s./25 per sheet (about $8.30 per sheet). So, maybe I'll start my art career here by coming back to the states on a supply run! Anyway, after that I treated Moises to a juice at Café Haiti where we continued talking about lots of things. I have learned much about the history and status of printmaking here in Lima--the good thing is that there is a lot of potential because there is so little of it!
Today I met with the Director of ARTCO, a very nice gallery in San Isidro. I brought the few works I have here with me to show. I'll boil the experience down to this: it was positive. Silvia Ana provided me with information and is trying to help me establish myself here through various contacts. The big thing is for me to make my work, for which I need a studio. And a job? Yes, those shall be other adventures, I'm sure!
Anyway, I can safely say that the art world here seems more like comradery than cut-throat competition and egotism. And, for that, I am grateful. I'm excited!
Meanwhile, Fernando is about to start a new semester teaching at three schools here in Lima. Hope's birthday is coming up, for which I promised another carrot cake. Fernando's brother, Ricardo is coming with his wife Gletys; sister, Mali is coming with her husband Tom (or is it Thom? --I bet it's Tom), and among other things I am entering a national contest of craft (Concurso Nacional de Artesania) which comes with a $3000USD prize, if I win; I'm making a series of books.
So, yes, as I expected, the slowness that was making me mad would soon fly away and become movement once again. Goodbye, slowness. Goodbye. Hello normal!
We met with the Christina Deuñas of Taller 72. The studio was nice, clean, adequately equipt, and easy enough to find. They have a big press, a small press, a litho press, screen printing/plate shooting area, ventilated area (outdoors, of course) and decent sized work tables. Good. I learned that supplies are hard to come by, and my work is unusual because of the non-black-ink-ness of it. So, those colored inks are going to have to be imported--bummer. And so are the sheets of BFK, Kitakata, Somerset and the other things I usually use. I did find Arches though for the lovely price of s./25 per sheet (about $8.30 per sheet). So, maybe I'll start my art career here by coming back to the states on a supply run! Anyway, after that I treated Moises to a juice at Café Haiti where we continued talking about lots of things. I have learned much about the history and status of printmaking here in Lima--the good thing is that there is a lot of potential because there is so little of it!
Today I met with the Director of ARTCO, a very nice gallery in San Isidro. I brought the few works I have here with me to show. I'll boil the experience down to this: it was positive. Silvia Ana provided me with information and is trying to help me establish myself here through various contacts. The big thing is for me to make my work, for which I need a studio. And a job? Yes, those shall be other adventures, I'm sure!
Anyway, I can safely say that the art world here seems more like comradery than cut-throat competition and egotism. And, for that, I am grateful. I'm excited!
Meanwhile, Fernando is about to start a new semester teaching at three schools here in Lima. Hope's birthday is coming up, for which I promised another carrot cake. Fernando's brother, Ricardo is coming with his wife Gletys; sister, Mali is coming with her husband Tom (or is it Thom? --I bet it's Tom), and among other things I am entering a national contest of craft (Concurso Nacional de Artesania) which comes with a $3000USD prize, if I win; I'm making a series of books.
So, yes, as I expected, the slowness that was making me mad would soon fly away and become movement once again. Goodbye, slowness. Goodbye. Hello normal!
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Adventures in Lima
It's fair to say that Peru is not the United States, nor Lima is the city of New York. One is not better than the other, instead each is unique in its own way. I have been exploring Lima, little by little, and with the help of Fernando and his/my/our friends and theirs.
LIMA - EL CENTRO
Fernando and I went on an adventure to Lima (the district--as in Lima-the-district is a part of Lima-the-city). It's not the safest place, the air is extremely polluted with exhaust and it's covered in a layer of soot (the exhaust). We explored the Mercado Central, in search of wool for felting, but found only a smattering of children and baby clothing and a poorly ventilated area selling butchered items (cuts of chicken, beef, pork, and cuy, chicken feet, tripe, etc). There were some very beautiful historic buildings (in various states of repair and disrepair) with handsome balconies poised above long stretches of sidewalk. The woodwork was incredible. We continued our tour around the government buildings and around the Plaza de Armas and over the Rimac River (so polluted). We spotted the many buzzards living on the government buildings and surrounding light posts (remember they survive on carrion). While downtown we ate a delicious meal in Chinatown (Capón). After our touring Fernando and I continued my quest for wool. We ended up in a gritty industrial area, at a factory, in the nicotine covered office of the owner. His factory makes a high quality wool yarn for knitting sweaters, and his thread gets shipped to manufacturers in Europe. That was all fine, but I just wanted some wool. We talked to the owner for a while, he smoked a cigarette. Señor Simonetto had a huge nose and looked like he walked off the set from a Jeunet et Caro film. I left with a few kilos of wool for a small fee; the smell of cigarettes, free. Fernando and I took a taxi back to the house--we were stuck in traffic forever.
BARRANCO
My friend Monica Cuba is an artist who lives and works in Barranco. She's a completely sweet person who is laughing all of the time. Not long after I met her she took me around to a bunch of galleries. The ones I can remember and identify include: Lucia de la Puente (Paseo Sáenz Peña 206, Barranco), Dédalo (Paseo Sáez Peña 295, Barranco), ICPNA (Avenida Angamos 120, Miraflores) and Vertice (Ernesto Placencia 350, San Isidro).
This Peruvian Independence Day(s) celebration Fernando finally got to meet Monica, at a craft fair being held in Barranco. At the craft fair we learned that Peruvian cotton grows in seven colors! So I bought a little change purse, woven from six colors of cotton, for five soles. All I could think about was, "Let's make some paper from the green cotton"--yes, green! Later, Monica put me in contact with her friend Moises, a painter who teaches printmaking at La Catolica University (Fernando teaches there too).
(Small change purse with the natural colors of Peuvian cotton)
LIMA - EL CENTRO
Fernando and I went on an adventure to Lima (the district--as in Lima-the-district is a part of Lima-the-city). It's not the safest place, the air is extremely polluted with exhaust and it's covered in a layer of soot (the exhaust). We explored the Mercado Central, in search of wool for felting, but found only a smattering of children and baby clothing and a poorly ventilated area selling butchered items (cuts of chicken, beef, pork, and cuy, chicken feet, tripe, etc). There were some very beautiful historic buildings (in various states of repair and disrepair) with handsome balconies poised above long stretches of sidewalk. The woodwork was incredible. We continued our tour around the government buildings and around the Plaza de Armas and over the Rimac River (so polluted). We spotted the many buzzards living on the government buildings and surrounding light posts (remember they survive on carrion). While downtown we ate a delicious meal in Chinatown (Capón). After our touring Fernando and I continued my quest for wool. We ended up in a gritty industrial area, at a factory, in the nicotine covered office of the owner. His factory makes a high quality wool yarn for knitting sweaters, and his thread gets shipped to manufacturers in Europe. That was all fine, but I just wanted some wool. We talked to the owner for a while, he smoked a cigarette. Señor Simonetto had a huge nose and looked like he walked off the set from a Jeunet et Caro film. I left with a few kilos of wool for a small fee; the smell of cigarettes, free. Fernando and I took a taxi back to the house--we were stuck in traffic forever.
BARRANCO
My friend Monica Cuba is an artist who lives and works in Barranco. She's a completely sweet person who is laughing all of the time. Not long after I met her she took me around to a bunch of galleries. The ones I can remember and identify include: Lucia de la Puente (Paseo Sáenz Peña 206, Barranco), Dédalo (Paseo Sáez Peña 295, Barranco), ICPNA (Avenida Angamos 120, Miraflores) and Vertice (Ernesto Placencia 350, San Isidro).
This Peruvian Independence Day(s) celebration Fernando finally got to meet Monica, at a craft fair being held in Barranco. At the craft fair we learned that Peruvian cotton grows in seven colors! So I bought a little change purse, woven from six colors of cotton, for five soles. All I could think about was, "Let's make some paper from the green cotton"--yes, green! Later, Monica put me in contact with her friend Moises, a painter who teaches printmaking at La Catolica University (Fernando teaches there too).
(Small change purse with the natural colors of Peuvian cotton)MIRAFLORES
I met with Moises this morning (he could not have been nicer) and tomorrow we are going to meet again to find a printshop caller Taller 72. I'll post more about this later. In the meantime, I shared excellent conversation this morning about art making, teaching and the general state of things here in Lima--from the mouth of an artist. He showed me where one could buy Arches paper (Van Dyck, Avenida La Paz 663, Miraflores). There was a feeling of normal again; I missed the voice of the artist.
I met with Moises this morning (he could not have been nicer) and tomorrow we are going to meet again to find a printshop caller Taller 72. I'll post more about this later. In the meantime, I shared excellent conversation this morning about art making, teaching and the general state of things here in Lima--from the mouth of an artist. He showed me where one could buy Arches paper (Van Dyck, Avenida La Paz 663, Miraflores). There was a feeling of normal again; I missed the voice of the artist.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Pisaq (Pisac)
Pisaq was a day trip from Cusco (city). Above the town are some beautiful Inca ruins and spectacular vistas.
(View from the top of the ruins in Pisaq)
(Terraces and a wall)
(More stone steps)
(Fernando entering the cave/tunnel)
(Fernando exiting the cave/tunnel)
(Handsome and handsome)
(Highly developed Inca masonry--a nice couple took this photo for us)
(Inca trail from the ruins to the town of Pisaq)
(A local heading down to Pisaq, I marveled at the speed that the locals descended--running!)
(Old stairs in only slightly worse and more overgrown condition than the stairs we took)Machu Picchu
(Hiding in the shade, I thought it would not be as hot as it was)
(Happy Mountain behind Happy Kathy--I was faking it because I was exhausted)
(Takilpus, look what can they do for you!)
(Machu Picchu)
(Self-portrait and some ruins)
(Across the lawn from our walkway, yet another incredible vision)
(Steep terraces)
(Green taking back the land)
(An assortment of terraces)Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Ollantaytambo: Altitude 9,160 Feet
(The Incas celebrated water, this is one of their water features)
(Fernando and I in the sunshine)
(Looking up part of the ruins and the mountain)
(View onto the agricultural fields of Ollantaytambo)
(In front of some ceremonial square carvings)
(Stone steps and terraces)
(I was a little intimidated by the narrow path and big drop)
(Fernando reposed)
(Stone steps leading down)
(Fernando coaching me to not fall off the ruins not matter how much it draws me in)
(Fernando in a ruin alley)
(View of Ollantaytambo, the Andes and the Amazing Sacred Valley, from the Inca ruins)
(Key shaped notch used to attach wood plank to stone ceremonial slab)
(View of an out-of-reach part of the ruins)
(Fernando being cute)Cusco City: Altitude 11,203 Feet
(From the airplane)
(Coca tea, a cure for high altitude sickness--and no you don't get high)
(Fernando enjoying his maté de coca)
(A typical Cusco alleyway with Inca masonry)
(Plant growing in Inca masonry)
(Protest art, a caricature of the Peruvian President)
(Two from the Fine Arts School, large scale sculptures maybe for a parade)
(Fake tatoos on an old font in the main plaza)Happy Belated Birthday!
I made Fernando a birthday cake: carrot with lots of cream cheese frosting. I humbly tell you, the cake was good.
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